If you live in a region that regularly experiences power outages due to weather conditions, it’s important to have a standby generator installed. They can help you avert disasters and save your family’s lives.
Whole house generators are designed to kick on automatically when the electricity goes out, making it easy to stay warm and safe. They also add value to your home and can be worth the cost in the long run.
During an unexpected power outage, many homeowners may find themselves in need of a whole house generator. These generators are permanently installed and ready to switch on when needed.
Whole house generators are ideal for protecting your home and family from prolonged power outages that can cause serious damage and lead to expensive repairs. They are also an excellent emergency backup power source for your heating and cooling system, appliances, electronics, lighting, and other critical needs.
When it comes to placing your whole house generator, there are a few important considerations. One is to make sure the location meets local building codes.
Another is to select the best place to keep exhaust fumes away from your home and family. This will minimize the risks of carbon monoxide poisoning and air pollution.
Most manufacturers and local building codes have a required minimum distance between your home and the back of the generator. This typically is five feet from any door or window opening and three feet away from flammable materials.
Power outages can be scary and a threat to your home’s safety. Loss of electrical service can also result in food spoiling, appliances breaking down and home systems that need electricity to function shutting off.
The right generator capacity is important to protect your family from the pain of a power outage. Ideally, you’ll want to choose a whole house generator with enough capacity to keep all of your essentials running.
When determining how much power your generator needs, consider the wattage of each appliance and system you have in your home. For example, a fridge, laptop, TV and light bulbs all have a certain amount of wattage they need to run.
Then, multiply those wattages by the generator’s kilowatt rating, which is measured in kW (1 kilowatt equals 1000 watts). This will give you a rough estimate of the capacity that your generator needs to support.
Whole house generators provide the power to backup your home’s electrical system. They can be connected to natural gas lines or large fuel tanks to keep your appliances running through a prolonged power outage.
Once only available to hospitals and important governmental buildings, these standby generators are now more accessible than ever to homeowners. They can be especially useful in areas regularly threatened with blizzards or hurricanes and in remote locations where the power is less reliable.
A whole house generator can power the air conditioning, heating, lighting, appliances, and electronics in your home, so you won’t have to worry about losing power when it goes out. Additionally, they run on liquid-cooled engines that don’t overheat when they’re generating the power your home needs to stay powered.
When choosing a location for your whole house generator, consult with a licensed electrician, local utilities, and your home’s building authority. They will tell you how far away to place the generator from your doors, windows, vents, and flammable material.
When the power goes out, your automatic transfer switch shuts off the utility supply and activates your backup generator. The generator then sends power to designated emergency circuits in your home.
The generator is connected to the transfer switch via a cord and wiring. The generator breaker in the main circuit panel protects the wires from overload when the switch is in the generator position.
Electrical codes require that all wiring from the generator to the transfer switch be rated for 50-amps or larger, regardless of the load connected to the generator. This includes the wires that run from the inlet box to the transfer switch.
In addition, the wires from the inlet box to the transfer switch must meet or exceed the minimum conduit size for a 30-amp or 50-amp receptacle. This is typically 3/4-inch or 1-inch conduit, depending on the wire gauge and receptacle size.